Cambio de Tercio strikes a difficult balance between having a laid back, hospitable atmosphere of the kind you’d expect from a local Spanish eatery, with modern and elaborate cooking and efficient service you’d expect from a good restaurant.

You can go for starters and mains or just order tapas and we went for the latter, planning to share all tapas amongst the 4 of us. As the menu suggested to order 3-4 dishes per person, we ended up ordering about 15 different tapas (which was most of the menu). This turned out to be a mistake. The food was excellent (I won’t attempt to remember and mention all the dishes, suffice to say that none of them was a disappointment), but mixing several fish dishes with several meat ones, all very tasty but with strong flavours, was overwhelming. We would have been better off with each sticking to a few tapas or just ordering a la carte - and we’ll probably go back and do that as the cooking was indeed very good.

The staff were friendly and seemed to cope with the restaurant being full to the brim, and we got offered (more than one) digestive on the house at the end of the meal from our friendly waiter.

We’ll definitely be visiting this restaurant again, or possibly Tendido Cero across the road, owned by the same people but more of a tapas bar than a restaurant.